CARE SHEET - Eurydactylodes (Chameleon Geckos)
Eurydactylodes is a genus of smaller geckos comprised of only four species endemic to the island New Caledonia. At Jecko’s Geckos LLC, we are currently breeding all four species of Eurydactylodes.
These geckos live in Sclerophyll Forests in the wild. Inside the cage we recommend manzanita sticks, Fluker’s Bend a Branch, Zoo Med Flexible Hanging Vine, and Pangea’s Ultimate Reptile Vine (assorted vines, Pangea Mossy Sticks and foliage can be found here: https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/vines.html). Cage size should be appropriate for the age of the gecko. For a single baby/ juvenile we use 8x8x8 or 8x8x12 Exo Terra tanks (or equivalent size from other companies, i.e. https://dwgeckos.com/). A single adult will do well in a 12x12x18 Exo Terra tank, as will pairs or trios.
Pictured is an Eurydactylodes agricolae baby
We supply tropical level UVB (either Reptisun 5.0 or 6% UVB from Aracadia) on all our Eurydactylodes breeders. We recommend temperatures between 70-80° F.
Eurydactylodes can be raised on powdered fruit mixes. We use Pangea Fruit Mix Complete Breeder and Apricot Formulas (pangeareptile.com). Feeding occurs every other day. We do supplement our geckos, as recommended by Pangea, with insects: 1/8th-1/4” crickets and dubia roaches and fruit flies.
We lightly mist our geckos daily.
Either paper towel or bioactive substrates can be used. We use paper towel at Jecko’s Geckos and swap it out every other week or sooner if it appears to be dirty.
Babies and Juveniles:
We recommend smaller cages with paper towel and small sticks for them to grasp. We recommend manzanita sticks, Fluker’s Bend a Branch, Zoo Med Flexible Hanging Vine, and Pangea’s Ultimate Reptile Vine.
Pictured is a Eurydactylodes vieillardi
Species tend to start laying eggs in the spring (February-April). Depending on conditions, they can lay eggs for a while in winter (December). October-December is typically when laying begins to slow down. No eggs are laid during the cooler months/ brumation period. During the brumation period, we keep the conditions the same and feed the same amounts. The temperature drops only a few degrees from the house naturally being cooler in the winter. We keep adults are kept together year round.
The exact incubation method is available here at Jecko's Geckos. The Kit comes with a container and incubation medium (vermiculite). We fill the tray with vermiculite and add water, being careful to not add too much (no water should run off when tipped, gently squeeze extra moisture out by pressing on the vermiculite). Eggs typically take between 2-3 months to hatch. Sometime eggs hatch earlier (even 1 month) or later (4 months).
The life expectancy of these geckos are unknown. Best guess based on the time to sexually mature (1.5 - 3 years), would be 10-15 years. We recently lost one of first females that was at least 12 years old.
Other information: In general, there is little information on the genus as a whole. However, here is a link to one of my favorite articles (AKA the Eurydactylodes revision) that can help you understand the difference between the species (https://www.academia.edu/2246697/Review_and_phylogeny_of_the_New_Caledonian_diplodactylid_gekkotan_genus_Eurydactylodes_Wermuth_1965_with_the_description_of_a_new_species).
These are our general guidelines that we adhere to at Jecko’s Geckos LLC. In general there is little information on this genus for captive care. We are happy to advise, but our care comes from experience and other advice from other veteran hobbyists. For additional questions please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
A common question is "How do I tell them apart?". The answer lies in the taxonomy and the species descriptions. The figure below is from Bauer et al. 2009 from the revision of the Eurydactylodes clade, depicting the differences in head morphology between all four species. The easiest way to tell the difference between the two most commons species in the pet trade are E. agricolae have a continuous slit from their mouths to ears (Fig. 7C) while in E. vieillardi they do not (Fig. 7A). Eurydactylodes symmetricus have tubercles (small bumps) on the nape (Fig. 7D) and have a continuous slit from their mouths to ear. Eurydactylodes occidentalis have larger head scales, large body scales, and are signifncantly smaller (~10mm SVL) than the other species.
A B C D
FROM BAUER ET AL. 2009
FIG. 7: Comparative dorsal (above) and lateral (below) head scalation of Eurydactylodes spp. A, E. vieillardi (CAS 231983); B, E. occidentalis, sp. nov. (MNHN 2004.0026); C, E. agricolae (CAS 231995); D, E. symmetricus (CAS 232007). Note the small piece of scaled-skin separating the postlabial slit from the ear in A and B (black arrows) and the continuous postlabial-subauricuar slit visible in C. Eurydactylodes occidentalis has larger, more symmetrical head scales than either E. vieillardi or E. agricolae, but not as large or regular as E. symmetricus. Only E. symmetricus has a patch of tubercles on the nape (white arrow).